What Makes a Suit Expensive?
Although some men may believe that all suits are equal, the reality is that menswear garments vary greatly in quality and price, significantly affecting their comfort and style. Failing to recognize these differences is akin to failing to differentiate between vehicles such as a Kia Soul and a Rolls Royce Boat Tail.
Several factors contribute to the cost of a suit, and the price is often reflective of the quality, craftsmanship, and materials used.
Suits within the $100 price range are commonly offered by retailers that emphasize affordability, such as brands like Jos. A. Banks, H&M, Men’s Wearhouse, and similar stores. These retailers rely on the appeal of low prices, hoping that customers will be swayed by the affordability and may not scrutinize the garment's quality thoroughly—essentially, the assumption being that if it's priced so reasonably, it becomes an attractive purchase without much consideration for its overall quality.
Construction Details: The way a suit is constructed can affect its price. Fully canvassed suits, where the inner layer is made of canvas, are typically more expensive than half or fused canvassed suits, where a fused material is used for construction.
Tailoring and Craftsmanship: The level of craftsmanship and attention to detail in the construction of the suit influence its cost. Hand-stitching, intricate linings, and precision tailoring are labor-intensive processes that can increase the overall price.
Suits priced around $100 are predominantly machine-made and typically assembled in a relatively short timeframe, often within two or three hours. The intricate handiwork essential for achieving flexibility and a draped fit that conforms to the body is notably absent at this price point. Manufacturers operating within this budget range find it economically challenging to incorporate labor-intensive handwork due to the additional associated costs.
The construction of $1000 suits involves a variable degree of time and effort, with labor time ranging from 8 to over 30 hours. The geographical location of manufacturing also plays a crucial role. Suits produced in prestigious locations like London, England, or fashion capitals such as Milan or Rome, Italy, may adhere to the same high standards as those from places like Hong Kong or Thailand. However, the higher cost of wages in the former locations contributes to an increased overall cost of the suit.
This craftsmanship may be limited to decorative elements, or it can extend to functional details like a hand-sewn interlining or collar, aiming to enhance comfort and achieve a superior fit.
Prominent fashion brands such as Canali, Armani, or Dolce & Gabbana typically exhibit less handwork, focusing more on refined styles and patterns. In contrast, suits originating from Asian manufacturers may feature more handwork due to lower labor costs, but the styling might occasionally lean towards the traditional side, reflecting reliance on older, well-established patterns.
Fabric Quality: The type and quality of the fabric significantly impact the price. High-end suits often use premium materials like wool, cashmere, or silk, which are more expensive than lower-grade alternatives.
Lining and Interfacing: High-quality suits often have luxurious linings and interfacing materials that add to the overall comfort and durability of the garment.
The cost of raw materials constitutes a significant portion of a suit's overall expenses. To maintain affordability, lower-priced suits often use lower-quality fabrics.
Limited Edition or Rarity: Suits produced in limited quantities or those with rare materials may come with a higher price tag due to their exclusivity.
In the case of a $100 suit, the fabric is typically blended with polyester, nylon, or other synthetic fibers to cut costs. Even when natural materials like cotton or wool are employed, they are usually of the lowest possible quality.
While the $100 suit may appear similar in glossy advertising photos, the difference becomes evident as soon as you touch it. Both the shell and the lining exhibit lower-quality fabric—they feel stiffer, less comfortable, and are more prone to inducing sweating due to the stuffy, insulating nature of the materials.
In a cheap suit, the interlining is typically of subpar quality and is adhered to the fabric through gluing to ensure structural integrity. While this method may suffice temporarily, it also functions as an insulator, increasing the likelihood of overheating and sweating. As time passes, particularly if the garment gets wet, the interlining is prone to detaching, resulting in the formation of bubbles on the fabric, especially noticeable on the lapels. This issue not only looks peculiar and sloppy but also serves as one of the most straightforward indicators of a low-quality and inexpensive suit.
At the $1,000 price point, luxurious fabrics continue to be a hallmark of fine garments. Here, you are more likely to encounter cloth of at least decent quality, characterized by excellent durability, a soft and comfortable feel, and a pleasing drape. The emphasis on using higher-quality materials contributes to the overall luxuriousness and performance of the suit.
The construction of the interlining stands out as the most significant advantage that a $1,000 suit holds over a $100 suit, greatly enhancing both the drape and comfort of the garment.
In the realm of $1,000 suits, interlinings are typically crafted using one of two methods: Half Canvas or Full Canvas. These techniques involve the incorporation of a canvas layer between the suit's outer fabric and lining. Half Canvas extends through the chest and lapels, while Full Canvas covers the entire front of the jacket. Both methods contribute to a more natural and well-shaped drape, offering superior comfort and a tailored appearance compared to the construction methods commonly found in lower-priced suits.
Customization: Made-to-measure or bespoke suits, where the garment is tailored to the specific measurements and preferences of the individual, are generally more expensive than off-the-rack options.
Design and Style: Suits with unique or intricate designs, as well as those following the latest fashion trends, may be priced higher. Custom or designer elements, such as special buttons or unique lapel styles, can also contribute to the cost.
Buttons and Hardware: The quality and material of buttons, zippers, and other hardware elements can impact the overall cost of a suit. High-end suits may feature custom or genuine horn buttons, for example.
Maintaining low prices in suit production often makes it challenging to allocate funds for meticulous attention to fine details. In the case of buttonholes on a budget suit, a more expedient approach is taken where they are initially sewn and then cut. While this method is quicker and cost-effective, it results in frayed threads being left behind, showcasing a compromise in craftsmanship and finishing on the garment.
In the realm of inexpensive suits, a primary focus on a low price point often takes precedence over functionality and attention to detail. Various aspects of cheap suit detailing reflect this emphasis on affordability—buttons are commonly crafted from plastic, the lining is often composed of polyester, and visually appealing details like pick stitching are usually absent. The overarching objective in such suits is to minimize costs at every step rather than prioritizing elevated craftsmanship or aesthetic enhancements.
At the $1,000 price point, there is an expectation among clients for finer detailing, and manufacturers often meet this demand. These finer details commonly encompass handmade buttonholes, which present a neater and more elegant appearance compared to their machined counterparts. Threads with exquisite, high sheens, often crafted from silk or quality cotton, are also utilized. Certain sections of the interlining may be meticulously sewn by hand or carefully applied by machine.
While these details may seem small individually, their cumulative effect can significantly enhance the overall experience of wearing a suit, contributing to a heightened sense of quality and sophistication.
Suits in the $1,000 price range are typically designed with more versatile, flattering, and timeless lines. This design approach stems from the expertise of makers who understand both fashion trends and what looks best on a broad spectrum of men. At this price point, ensuring customer satisfaction is paramount. These suits strike a balance between being neither excessively trendy nor overly traditional, walking the fine line of good taste. The investment of time and effort in this design element is reflected in the price, resulting in garments that appeal to a broader audience and stand the test of time in terms of style.
