Classic Suit Button Rules

Many men may not be aware, but when it comes to your suit jacket, there exist rules regarding the buttons. Unfortunately, these rules often go overlooked as many men do not fully comprehend their significance.

Why do these rules matter?

Your jacket, depending on its style, is meticulously designed to be fastened in a particular manner. Incorrect buttoning can result in improper draping, causing the jacket to bunch up around the midsection and disrupt your overall appearance. To those with an eye for style, such mistakes can convey a lack of sartorial knowledge.

In this article, I delve into the essential men's suit button rules that every stylish and distinguished man should be acquainted with.

It's crucial to specify that we're discussing suits here. While sports jackets typically follow similar buttoning conventions, the rules are notably more relaxed due to their casual nature.

You've likely heard your grandfather mention the traditional buttoning guidelines for different jacket styles: sometimes, always, never for a three-button jacket; always, never for a two-button jacket; and always for a one-button jacket.

Paying attention to suit buttoning details signals a man's attentiveness to precision. Those who aren't regular suit wearers often overlook these nuances. These subtle rules serve as a marker for sartorial sophistication, allowing those 'in the know' to recognize each other.

Proper buttoning typically enhances a suit's appearance, creating a sleeker silhouette when standing. Unbuttoning while seated prevents discomfort, wrinkles, and button strain.

Modern suits are designed with the assumption that the bottom button will remain unfastened. Manufacturers tailor suits to ensure proper fabric draping, especially on two-button or three-button jackets.

One distinguishing feature of this type of suit jacket is its single button.

Originating from traditional rebellious eveningwear designs, one-button suit jackets are often tailored with a longer length compared to other styles.

Maintaining a balanced proportion is achieved by keeping the button fastened.

With only one buttonhole on the suit jacket, there's no question about which button to fasten.

It's essential to always button these jackets when standing.

The traditional protocol for buttoning a two-button jacket is to fasten the top button while leaving the bottom one undone.

Always ensure the top button is securely fastened when standing.

When seated, unbutton the jacket to prevent creasing, and promptly re-button upon standing.

It's imperative to never button the bottom button.

Fastening the bottom button can give the impression of sartorial ignorance and visually add unnecessary bulk to your frame due to the jacket's billowing effect. Most modern men's suits are designed with the expectation that the bottom button remains unfastened.

Buttoning the bottom button may result in a tighter fit around the hips, causing the sides to flare out slightly and disrupt your silhouette's harmony.

The "sometimes, always, never" guideline applies to each of the three buttons on a suit jacket.

When standing, it's a matter of personal choice whether to button the top button, but the middle button should always be fastened, and the bottom button should never be fastened.

Closing the top button on these jackets is optional when standing.

The middle button on these jackets should always be buttoned when standing.

You should never fasten the bottom button.

Unbutton all buttons when seated.

It's generally not recommended to button many three-button suits on the top (referred to as 2 1/2 suits), and the lower button is typically positioned in a way that restricts movement. In some three-button jackets, the top button may be hidden behind the lapel. If buttoning the top interferes with the lapel's natural fold, it should be left unbuttoned, making it optional.

I wouldn't advise wearing a jacket with more than three buttons. However, if you choose to wear one with four or more buttons, remember to leave the bottom button undone.

Double-breasted jackets are typically buttoned almost always.

Double-breasted jackets are classified by the total number of buttons on the suit front followed by the number of working buttons. For example, a six-by-two jacket has six buttons but only two buttonholes.

If you choose to leave some buttons undone, traditionally, it's most common to fasten the top button.

However, there's a trend among those who prefer a longer line to leave the lowest button undone, including members of the British royal family, so either approach is generally acceptable.

Traditionally(Yes, I know it’s 2024. But TRADITIONALLY), the decision of whether to button or unbutton your suit jacket extends beyond personal preference; it's a reflection of your understanding of suit etiquette.

While there are clear guidelines for buttoning your jacket, knowing when to leave it unbuttoned is equally important for a polished and sophisticated appearance.

One of the few occasions where it's acceptable to leave your suit jacket unbuttoned is during more casual events. For example, at social gatherings or informal meetings, you can choose to keep your jacket unbuttoned to exude a relaxed yet refined style.

Whether you're adhering to traditional rules or adapting to the specific context of the event, the essential factor is to achieve a harmonious balance between sophistication and comfort with your suit style.